SA.FAR.I. day1

SO. This one time, I got to finally go on a safari like I’d been wanting to for years!!! I even had it all booked to go on last year before the ship [2017], but had to cancel it and then my time on the ship because of my back knocking me down. But that’s old news. And I’m SO GLAD to say that!

So I went to the ship this year hoping to find a buddy who wanted to travel with me afterwards. I had recommendations from friends who are from South Africa that I should go on a tour to Etosha Game Park in Namibia with Wild Dog Safaris. I’d checked them out, and they looked amazing. It was also very reassuring that my friends were friends with the owners and had gone with them before. Safe, trustworthy. Thumbs up from Carmel, and my mom I’m sure. So as time went on, it seemed that none of my friends were leaving the ship around the same time as me. And if they were, they already had other plans that did not include my required GIRAFFE sighting. But finally I found Lou, a glitter-loving Aussie! {that little story is in my last post about getting to Namibia}

You may recall that the only time we actually spent together before our almost two-week holiday was a few scheduled {with some difficulty. The scheduling, not the planning.} planning and booking sessions. We both were slightly nervous about how the other would be as a travel buddy, but also very optimistic from what we did know of each other. Turns out we’re EXCELLENT travel buddies!!! We got along super well! Lou was kind enough to leave me alone in the mornings, except to sometimes give me coffee {major awesome points}!! We were the same level of adventurous and brave, but not without brains. We had very similar spending philosophies {let’s enjoy this cuz we worked and saved for it, but not just blow money}, balance of doing and seeing stuff but also relaxing and watching the sunset, and we were able to have a lot of really great easy conversation as well as just chill by ourselves. Seriously great travelling buddies. We both said we’d definitely travel together again. I think she meant it, and I always mean what I say.

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{we rode with at least one of our heads out of the truck a lot of the time. I figured they would tell us if they wanted us to sit down… Lou would stand up there in the mornings, and I’d join her once I was awake enough.}

It’s so great to have someone to travel with. I often end up doing stuff by myself cuz my friends don’t have the time, extra cash, or both to just do crazy stuff. For international travel, the extra safety of having a buddy is especially fantastic. Plus as a 98% extrovert, I love having someone to chat and share experiences with! Also, we made sure to take photos of each other so we’d both have some of ourselves on vacation instead of just being the one behind the camera. YAY TRAVELLING BUDDY LOU!!! So much better with a buddy.

OKAY, on to the SAFARI!!! It. Was. AWESOME.

We got picked up in the morning on Saturday after quickly finishing our breakfast and checking out of our room. I was very prepared for my usual bus [or large vehicle]-induced nausea. I wore my pressure point bracelets and had one of these bags of supplies [at least three different anti-emetic medications, ginger candies, ginger chews, alcohol swabs to smell, tinc benz to smell, candies and gum, a sleeping mask to cover my eyes, airplane emesis bags, napkins, and wet wipes] with me in the “truck” {that’s what they called it anyway… Closer to a van, if you ask me, though not quite that either.}, and DSC03080the other of back-ups in my luggage backpack. I didn’t want to take meds that might make me groggy unless I needed to, but I was expecting to survive all of the driving with my eyes closed and in a bit of a drugged fog due to anti-emetics. However. I am beyond thrilled to report, I HAD NO NAUSEA!!! Not even a little! By the end of our trip, I was even brave enough to try riding without my bracelets on {though I kept them very accessible}. And I was still fine!! SO. AWESOME. To be fair, it wasn’t exactly a bus that we were on, but I’ve gotten ill in cars and land rovers in Africa so I was pretty excited to not be! Lou kept checking to see if I was okay while we were driving, though she often only did so with her eyes cuz she didn’t want to make it worse by suggesting it and making me think about it. How kind! The first half of our tour was almost entirely on nice paved roads, or driving fairly slowly on the pretty decent gravel roads inside the game reserve. But the second half was almost entirely on very bumpy gravel roads and I was still fine!! YAY!! Praise the Lord!

When we got to the wildlife sanctuary {Etosha National Park; Etosha is from an Oshindonga word meaning Great White Plain, because there’s a massive salt and mineral pan. which is white.}, our tour guide Markus says “I promise you will see giraffes” {he didn’t even know yet that they’re my most favoritest animal and that my sister told me not to come home until I’d seen one in real life}. Then about 32 seconds later he adds “yes, there’s a 50/50 chance you’ll see giraffes.” UM. EXCUSE ME MARKUS!? THOSE ARE NOT THE SAME!!! i. need. to. see. giraffes!!!! {Markus, my sister might not let me out of the airport. she’ll send me back. likely get her hug and take whatever I bought her, and send me right back to Africa.}

 

{part of the salt pan}

He also told us to be on the lookout, and to tell him if we saw anything cool we wanted him to pull over for to see and take photos. Once in the park, it was very important to stay in the vehicle. Cuz, you know, lions and such. {it felt a little Lion King fairly often.}

So a few meters in and he pulls over [to the left. cuz they’re right hand drive. which I never did get used to. lucky for me, that’s normal for Lou so she kept me safe crossing streets! it’s always a good idea to choose a travel buddy who drives on the opposite side of the road than you. that way someone always has it figured out for driving and pedestrianing.], points into the trees, and shows us an impala. Um, okay, sure. Neat. But who really cares too much about an impala? I’m still rather stuck on the fact that I was promised giraffes, followed by a 50/50 chance, and that’s not how promises are meant to work… and then. Honestly, I’m not certain if it was him or someone in our group [I think the latter] says they see a GIRAFFE!!!!! Kinda farther back through the trees, and then also an elephant!!!

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{I think this was pretty much my first glimpse of a giraffe!}

Markus starts the “truck” back up and drives a little forward, then down some gravel. To a watering hole. Surrounded by elephants and zebras!!! like FOR REALS!!! I don’t think there is any possible way to make you understand my surprise and excitement and joy. I was squealing like a three year old. Like when you take the cutest three year old boy to the Calgary Stampede parade and to see a ton of cool animals but since he loves trains all he can talk about is that we rode on the train and that the arm goes down and “ding ding ding GET OFF THE TRACKS!!” for example. But for me, the giraffes. Like jumping up and down in my seat. {That Markus. He knew the watering hole was twenty feet farther, he does this all the time. It’s his job. But first he stopped to show us the impala. I didn’t think about that till now.} As you saw in the photo of our vehicle, the top pops up to allow a better view by standing on the seats. But this was the first time we experienced it, and were pretty thrilled with it. Then I could jump up and down on my seat too. There were three giraffes kinda wandering in the distance. But a ton of elephants coming and going, and zebras patiently waiting their turn to go into the watering hole [but those dang selfish elephants were just milling around, no longer actually using the water, just not letting anyone else in]. There was an adorable itty bitty elephant that Markus figured was only a few days old! {so much of what he told us may have been entirely fictitious [had to have spellcheck fix that word], but since it’s his job, I’ve decided to believe most of it to be true. Except for that time he told us about how ostriches stand on each others’ backs and pass big logs with their beaks to build giant nests 15 feet up…} We all just stared at them in awe for a while, and took a few photos…

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Lou snapped a pretty nice reflection of one in my sunnies.

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{Boom. Photo drop. Click to see them bigger.}

After a while of watching elephants come and go, and one smaller one scare off a springbok or something, we headed on down the road. The main roads through are nicely paved, but the ones through the bushes and to watering holes are fairly decent gravel. So we zoomed along down the paved road toward where we’d camp that night, with Lou and I standing on our seats enjoying the view and breeze out the top. We were trying to see if we could spot any cool animals, but our view right then was mostly an open plain with a few trees and impalas, and all I could think of was the “I spy” game that moose play. {“Uh, I spy something green…” “TREE! my turn. I spy something… green.” “TREE!!” “oh, wow, you got it” “okay, my turn. I spy-” “TREE!” “hey, how’d you know?!”}[Bob, you’d better read this one. That’s for you. Except for me it was more like “hey, what’s that over there? a cool animal?! oh, it’s a tree.”]

 

{riding to camp standing on our seats with our heads out the top. oh look, a tree!}

We got to the first place we would camp, which looked a lot like a castle. But with zebras outside the fence. We had to set up camp {two-person tents, with small sleeping mats and sleeping bags. But we invited our new friend Brianna. I’ll tell you more about her later. She’s cool. Except for her hockey alliances.} quickly so that we could go to a nearby watering hole and be back before the campground gates closed at sunset [remember, lions and such.]. [My Aussie travel buddy says zebra like it rhymes with Debra {which is not my mother’s name}, so I’ve decided to call them that too.]

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{pulling up to the campground. some of the hotel and store part looked like a castle, fyi.}

We expertly set up our tent and soon everyone got back into the truck for some more touring {Except Mathew, our second tour guide. He stayed and started making supper}. In the distance, we {probably Lou, she was the best spotter} spotted something and we had a discussion I didn’t ever think I’d have: “Is that an elephant? … Or a really big rock?” we went back and forth on it a little bit, both unconvinced of either. It was an elephant. An old man elephant. {how do you know if an elephant is male or female? Aside from the obvious, which was my first answer, if an elephant is all by its lonesome it is an old man. The younger boys drive the older ones out of the herd.}

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So we’re on our way to this watering hole and Markus pulls over on the large plain we’re driving on and turns the ignition off. We all expectantly look out our windows to find whatever he saw that made him pull over. He gets out. Honestly, I didn’t think about it too much at the time, but rule #1 when we entered the wildlife park was to not get out of the vehicle. Cuz lions. So he gets out and goes kind of under the vehicle right where I’m sitting. At first I assumed he was getting something from one of the storage compartments. Then he comes back into the driver’s door and asks for someone to pass him a small water bottle. To put out a small fire. Um, okay… He gets one and goes back under, then asks for another. At this point a few of my fellow tourers [including Lou] decide to get out and see if he needs help. I decided my seat was a good spot for me. Standing beside the vehicle, Lou told me she thought to herself “I’m sure we could see a lion coming from here.” Markus puts the fire out and everyone gets back in. The he says he is going to try starting the truck again. This is where Carmel goes “uh, maybe now we should all get out?!” But it started just fine. And instead of driving on to the watering hole, Markus decides to head back for camp.

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{taken while Markus was “fixing” the truck}

We get maybe 300 metres [max] back down the road and he pulls over. We’re all like “more fire?” but no. There’s a lion. No joke. Just a pregnant lioness chilling in the tall grass and assessing its zebra prey across the plain. Very close to where people were outside of the vehicle… It wandered around the back of the truck and down the road where we had come from. So Markus put the truck in reverse and followed it for a bit. It continued its calm saunter with a few glances back to say “what in the world are you people doing? Stop following me. You’re giving me away to the zebras.” So after a while we left it alone and watched it prowl closer to them. It ended up being the only lion we saw close-up, and the only one we saw in the daylight.

 

{literally a few feet behind us on the road. it went right behind our truck to cross.}

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Continuing on our way back to the campsite, we stopped for a quick minute to check out a jackal beside the road. I immediately sneezed, so brilliantly deduced that I’m clearly allergic to them. Lou thought it was hilarious, at least.

Back at the campsite, we had a little time before supper was ready to check out the campground’s watering hole. It was at the edge of the luxury hut part of the campground and fenced off from the actual grounds, but with floodlights, bleachers, and benches for tourists’ viewing pleasure. There may have been a “silence please” sign that I possibly didn’t see until after I was maybe slightly indignant over being “shush”d… Oh well. Anyway, it was super cool watching elephants hang out and get water. After a while we went back to our site for supper, and then back to watch animals. I’d brought Qwirkle to play, cuz usually we play games in the evening when camping. But here, we bring a snack and watch a wildlife show. In real life. So cool.

 

{that’s my foot at the bottom of the first photo, so you can see the rock wall and barbed wire between me and two very close elephants!! on the right you can kinda see how the floodlight and seating are set up. not at all how I imagined it when Dawn and Dr. Willemse told me the tour would take me to a watering hole after dark to see the animals.}

We saw a few rhinos, a bunch of elephants, some very entertaining jackals {who did not make me sneeze} and birds. I realized that I hadn’t really expected to see rhinos. I hadn’t thought about them at all. Then it dawned on me that I’d subconsciously lumped them in with triceratops, which are obviously extinct. But they only have two horns {between a unicorn and triceratops}, so Brianna came up with “doseratops”. Change approved. That’s what they are now. Definitely teaching that to my niece.

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There were also a few lionesses and their cubs slinking around the shadows at periphery of where the floodlight reached. Unfortunately they never did come to where we could get a good view before we gave up and went to bed. We were hoping to see more lions, especially a male, and some cheetahs and leopards. But no such luck. They’re good at hiding, and there also aren’t as many of them. But I wanted to see a cheetah or leopard to tell my cousin Chita about {yes you say it like the animal, and she is very fast. I call her Leopard.}.

There was a baby elephant trying to scare off a rhino approximately the same size as it. It chased it a little and tooted at it, then ran to quickly hide behind its mommy. There were elephants farting, and not quietly. And what we could only assume was a young male asserting his dominance and not letting the lonely old man elephant who’d been there first not get to the water or his group. Brianna and Lou and I enjoyed [quietly] narrating animal storylines, like in kids movies. It’s possible I forgot what we were doing for a moment and almost believed what we’d come up with. Like we were actually watching a movie. So crazy.

 

Eventually it was time to go to our sleeping bags and pray the lion Markus claimed he heard announcing its approach didn’t come eat us. I mean, we were pretty far into the middle of the campground. Animals would be full or at least bored before they got to us.

So this is already incredibly long. Literally twice as many words as most. And only about day ONE! I have more to say, as usual, but that will come in another post. Congrats for getting through this! Hopefully it was painless.

*Most photos were taken by yours truly, but some are courtesy of my lovely travel buddy Lou. ❤ If “Olympus Digital Camera” pops up as the photo description, she’s the photographer.*

Namibian vacay! getting there…

WHAT?! How in the world am I so lucky that I got to {finally} go on a super-exciting Namibian vacation and safari!? Sometimes I see other people’s lives and wish mine were more like theirs, or some type of that dang jealousy or FOMO [fear of missing out] tries to steal my joy. But I try to immediately remind myself of all the awesome things I get to do! Like see GIRAFFES!!! {If I was ever not sure if they really are my favorite animal, my giddy awe at seeing them for reals has confirmed it.} and go to Calgary for Stampede and wicked-awesome rodeo and have a photo-op with champion bull riders Joe Frost and Derek Kolbaba. Among other fantastic-ness. Yeah, life’s alright.

So I have much more to say and show from my time on the ship, and my past few weeks at home/DVRC/Stampede have been jam-packed as well. But for now I’ll skip to the most exciting and interesting stuff: Namibian vacation!! [I feel like people ask the most about that, and it’s probably the easiest to explain.]

First off, my travel buddy Lou. We met one evening at the end of her first week on the ship. I was sitting on her in a cab {how many fit in a Douala cab? One more.} and noticed her sparkly shoes and phone case. I told her glitter was my favorite color [which I’ve been saying since before that was cool]. {sidenote: [and yes, I know I do a million of these. you choose to read this insanity.] one of the best kids I know, and had the pleasure to frequently babysit, Hannah Barki, liked to ask me my favorite color. it went like this: [every. time.] H: what’s your favorite color? me: GliTter!!! H: Glitter’s not a color!! [pretty emphatically. this 6-year-old has a lot of spunk and personality. she’s awesome.] then she’d either ask what color of glitter, or move on to my second favorite color. she mostly just liked to argue about glitter not being a color. obviously, it is.} anyway, I’ll write about my amazing ship people and the family I declared myself a part of in another post. Back to Lou. Glitter is also her favorite color. I asked how long she was on the ship for. She was departing the same week as me! I told her I was planning to go to Namibia for a safari after the ship, and wanna come? She said yeah!! I was like “well, I hope I like this girl… but she loves glitter so we’ll probably be okay.” Time was also getting shorter to actually make and confirm these plans I had in my head…

We figured we’d have time on the ship to hang out and get to know each other. I mean, living with 450ish people in a fairly confined space, you tend to bump into people. But we really didn’t. We didn’t hang out in the same groups. Our work schedules were pretty different {she’s a ward nurse}. She lived on deck 2 with only one roommate, and didn’t extrovert as much as me. 😉 So the only time we really ended up spending together was our few planning sessions to figure out exactly where and when we would go, and where we would stay. And even those were surprisingly difficult to schedule! When we did, though, it was awesome. We could agree pretty easily on what we wanted to do and see, and both were willing to spend some money but didn’t want to throw it around. So on May 30, we set out from the ship. Both telling our friends “we really haven’t hung out at all, but she seems chill. I think we’ll be fine. I hope.”

I thought I’d bawl like a baby leaving the ship, but I held it together until Abby. First, I felt a little popular with at least ten people out there to say goodbye and give me hugs! Oh goodness. Abby. I saw what she was about to do before it happened. As I went around the circle giving goodbye hugs, Abby got hers. A nice squishy one. My fave. I moved on to the next person, and she quickly shuffled herself to the other side of them. So that she was next. So she got another hug. Next person. Abby moves again. Trying hard not to cry. Sigh. I love that girl. I think she got four hugs out of that circle. But dang if she didn’t make my eyeballs all sweaty!! Eventually I had to get myself on the bus {that’s right, bus. for the THREE of us leaving at that time. cuz all the ship vehicles were ON the ship for sailing.} and wave out the back till I couldn’t see my people or my ship-home anymore. [luckily it was a super short ride to the airport and didn’t include any nausea, and I had my pressure point bracelets on just in case. {those things work. seriously. if I don’t have them and get nauseous, I hold my pressure points with my fingers. it isn’t so comfortable, but it makes a big difference for me.}]

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{and we’re off!! first flight!}

So after a little ocular bulimia on the dock, we were on our way! One of our Gurkhas [ship security, super amazing] was on our first flight, so he made sure we got through everything just fine. And a few of the other Gurkhas came along to the airport to see him off, and helped me with my excessive amount of luggage. I was pretty confident that each bag was well under the weight limit, until we were nearing the airport… then I started to worry… But they were both fine! {and both made it everywhere they were supposed to!! YAY!!!} Our personal security officer hurried us along through security at our first layover [we really were fine. and both ended up needing to go out and back through cuz there was no washroom past security. something on my ?sweater kept setting off the metal detectors so I got not one, but two pat-downs. they deemed me safe both times.]. We had a few hours to sit and wait in the surprisingly cold and empty Johannesburg airport, but we found somewhere comfortable to sit with wifi while we waited for counters to open so we could re-check our baggage and go through more security. And find hot caffeinated beverages.

We had uneventful travel and got off of our third flight {seriously. why is it so difficult and expensive to get from one country to another in Africa!? we just needed to go a little south. we went east, then southwest, then northwest. eye. roll.} in Windhoek, Namibia around 0830 after very little sleep. It was shockingly cold. Dang. I’d been told it was their winter, but I mean, it’s Africa. It doesn’t actually get cold. Right?? In my mind, at least… But I was wearing my spring/fall/rain jacket, and I figured I’d probably be fine. I mean, I’m Canadian… we start pulling the shorts out in spring for double digit temperatures. By midday, it was hot in the sun. It was a lot like May or June at home. Cool in the morning and evening, but hot once the sun is out and doing its job.

We exchanged our cash for Namibian dollars and South African Rand {these have the same value and are both accepted in Namibia as the same thing} at the airport, and I was blessed by Auntie Kay yet again! I’d just happened to re-find the cash she’d hidden in my book when I was at her house last summer, so I could exchange that too. {I wouldn’t let her pay me for something I’d picked up for her, so she hid it somewhere I wouldn’t find it to put back before I left. sneaky old lady. and it’s a book that makes me ponder and reflect a lot, so I only read a little at a time and it is taking me years to get through. but I really like it. it’s called Captivating.}

I had prepared myself for the 45 minute bus ride {EW} we were told we were taking to our first guesthouse. {In case you don’t know my bus history, buses make me nauseous. Usually any bus, for any amount of time. City buses for a few blocks turn my stomach. African roads and transportation in general doesn’t agree with my stomach.} Turns out it was like a thirty-minute very pleasant car ride on nice roads with just us and our driver. YES!!!

We arrived at our first guesthouse, very early for check-in. Which we’d neglected to inform them of beforehand. Oops. But they let us put our bags in their locked luggage room and showed us to the courtyard where we could wait in the sunshine. With. COFFEE!!! Good brewed coffee!!! It was delightful. So nice to just leisurely drink a few cups of good coffee in the sunshine. We hadn’t slept much on our long and overnight travel, so just relaxing was nice. But we didn’t really want to sleep too much during the day either, so we’d sleep well at night. It was only an hour different from ship time.

Once we were able to check into our room, we decided to head out for lunch and a little town exploring. By then it was shorts and tanktop {singlet if you’re Aussie} weather, so I changed and we walked “into town” [we were already in town, but not near any shops or restaurants] and found a mall area. The stark dichotomy between rich and poor, “Western” and “African”, was incredibly obvious and right beside each other. I’ve noticed this in itself to be quite “African”, if you will, every where I’ve been, but it seemed even more pronounced here. Otherwise I don’t think there was anything specifically exciting to say about Windhoek itself. It was nice enough, but we mostly just used it as a pit stop.

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{lunch on our first day in Namibia. I ordered iced coffee…}

Iced coffee. It seems so summertime normal to me, especially as a Gerbrandt. We drink coffee, and more coffee, and also some coffee. {though surprisingly I really only started drinking coffee in the last few years.} But in Namibia {and Australia, according to Lou[isa]} “iced coffee” is some {delightful} concoction that includes ice cream and whipped cream, and was sometimes blended like a frappe. It was tasty, but also not something I needed to be consuming too much of. Plus I just wanted my version of iced coffee. The second time I ordered one I was surprised again, cuz I totally forgot about their definition…. Finally I remembered before ordering and tried to explain what I wanted. Coffee, that was cold, with ice. And milk. “Cold milk?” Yes. {they usually had hot milk to add to coffee, which was also lovely.} It took a lot of communication. {sometimes, even though you’re both speaking what you each think is English, communication is tricky…} And after waiting quite a while, our lovely waiter came back with this! He wasn’t entirely convinced that he’d brought what I was after. The coffee was still warm, though he’d clearly put it into the fridge for as long as he dared make us wait. And I had to drink some down to be able to add the ice and milk. 🙂 But it was delicious!! Exactly what I’d been wanting!

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{on the right is Lou’s iced coffee. on the left are my ingredients! I love that I got an ice bucket.}

Interestingly, Namibian winter makes my skin feel the same as Canadian winter: dry. The oppressive humidity {like, constantly. even at 10pm} of Cameroon was long gone. Then a nice long shower that left my hair feeling better than it had in months [the ship water is not so nice to my hair], and SLEEP. Glorious sleep. Before an early-ish morning to have breakfast, store our big luggage, and check out before getting picked up by our tour company!

Our guesthouse, and the food they made, was excellent. Not too cheap, but a delicious hot made-when-you-order breakfast was included. French toast and bacon, YUM. Tastes kinda like a Saturday at home [except they didn’t use cinnamon, which seemed just wrong to me, but Lou said they don’t always in Australia either]. I’d recommend them. Windhoek Gardens Guesthouse. The staff and owner were incredibly friendly and helpful. We stayed there three separate nights, in three different rooms. Before and after our tour, and for the one night back in the city in the middle of our 6-day tour. Each room has a different massive gorgeous mural on one of the walls. This was my favorite, which we stayed in our second time there. The front grill on the truck is an actual grill mounted on the wall!

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Bahahaha. This is already longer than lots of my posts. Man I’m wordsy. Well, congrats if you made it through another rambly and rabbit-trail-y post. I hope you enjoyed the peek into my trip. More rambles, and photos, to follow. Have a most amazing day!!

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{walking into town}